SHOE PATTERN - MID MARY JANE
SHOE PATTERN - MID MARY JANE
SHOE PATTERN - MID MARY JANE
SHOE PATTERN - MID MARY JANE
SHOE PATTERN - MID MARY JANE
SHOE PATTERN - MID MARY JANE

SHOE PATTERN - MID MARY JANE

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Download and print our pre-made shoe patterns!

Each pattern is a PDF digital file that you can download instantly and print from home. This Mary Jane shoe pattern is designed to be used alongside the I Can Make Shoes womens mid-height lasts (reference 002)

Mary Janes have gotta be up there with one of the most classic shoe styles around! Similar to the classic court shoe, the Mary Jane has the extra addition of a strap that can be fastened with the buckle of your choice 🌟

You have the option to purchase sizes individually or the whole size range.

MORE ABOUT THIS PATTERN...

We've marked two separate strap withs on this patterns so you can choose the one which you prefer: 10mm or 15mm Mary Jane strap

This is a 3/4 cut court shoe pattern which means there is a full closed side seam and back seam. The pattern is the same for the upper and lining, the only difference being you would fold the 5mm allowance on the topline of the upper and this 5mm will become the trimming allowance on the topline of the lining.

You may be wondering... Why is that extra inside quarter pattern not part of the rest of the pattern so it can just be one continuous piece?

There are 2 reasons for this...the first being that for some sizes and heel heights the angle of the pattern for a court shoe means that the pattern would overlap itself at the back here. The second reason we break up the pattern here is so that you can get more out of your materials as there is less dead space within or around the pattern pieces 😊

If you have altered your last for a square/pointed toe or adjusted the width, we recommend adding on some extra lasting allowance to the pattern, to accommodate this build-up.

CLOSING SEQUENCE...

1. Trace and cut out the linings and uppers in your chosen material using the same pattern. *Remember to flip the pattern pieces to get left and right feet*

2. Stitch together all back seams and side seams, 5mm in from the edge. Open the seams with a little glue and skive away excess bulk.

3. Glue and fold over the 5mm allowance on the toplines of your uppers.

4. Match together the uppers with the linings and remember to insert your buckle before you stitch together at the topline. *The 5mm trimming allowance on your linings will sit 5mm above the topline of your uppers.*

5. Trim off the front half of the trimming allowance, leaving some at the back to help with the lasting process.

6. Punch holes into your straps and insert the straps through buckle.

You're now ready to last your uppers!

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