Download and print our pre-made shoe patterns!
Each pattern is a PDF digital file that you can download instantly and print from home. This Mary Jane shoe pattern is designed to be used alongside the I Can Make Shoes womens mid-height lasts (reference 002).
Mary Janes have gotta be up there with one of the most classic shoe styles around! Similar to the classic court shoe, the Mary Jane has the extra addition of a strap that can be fastened with the buckle of your choice. 🌟
MORE ABOUT THIS PATTERN...
We've marked two separate strap widths on this pattern so you can choose the one you prefer: 10mm or 15mm buckle strap.
This is a 3/4 cut court shoe pattern which means there is a closed side seam and a closed back seam. The pattern is the same for the upper and lining. The 5mm allowance along the topline of the pattern serves as both the folding allowance of your upper, as well as the trimming allowance of your lining.
You may be wondering... Why is that extra inside quarter pattern not part of the rest of the pattern? Why can't it just be one continuous piece?
There are 2 reasons for this...the first being that for some sizes and heel heights the angle of the pattern for a court shoe means that the pattern would overlap itself at the back. The second reason we break up the pattern here is so that you can get more out of your materials as there is less wasted space within and around the pattern pieces. 😊
If you have altered your last for a square/pointed toe or adjusted the width, we recommend adding on some extra lasting allowance to the pattern, to accommodate this build-up.
1. Trace and cut out the linings and uppers in your chosen material using the same pattern. *Remember to flip the pattern pieces to get left and right feet.*
2. Stitch together all back seams and side seams of your uppers and linings, stitching 5mm in from the edge. Open the seams with a little glue and skive away excess bulk. *Both these seams are closed seams, so stitch right sides together.*
3. Glue and fold over the 5mm allowance on the toplines of your uppers.
4. Apply a little glue along the wrong sides of your upper and lining toplines. Using your side and back seams as references, match together the uppers with the linings and stick the toplines together. *The 5mm trimming allowance on your linings will sit 5mm above the topline of your uppers.*
5. Cut 6cm of buckle elastic and position your buckle in the centre, leaving 3cm of elastic on either side. Sandwich 1cm of both ends of the elastic between your upper and lining pieces. There is a guide on your pattern indicating where to position your buckle elastic and at what angle.
6. Stitch your toplines together. Go slowly when stitching over the buckle elastic. Open up your upper and trim away any excess elastic with scissors.
7. Trim off the front half of the trimming allowance, leaving some at the back to help with the lasting process.
8. Punch holes into your straps and insert the straps through the buckles.
You're now ready to last your uppers!